MONGOLIA ICE FESTIVAL.

We drive out to Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, where the rock formations wear snow and the valleys go completely silent. We stop at the Aryapala Meditation Temple, then stand under the Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue, 40 metres of stainless steel staring east. There is a dressing room there with full traditional Mongolian kit, and yes, everybody does it.

Early flight north to Murun, then the scenic drive to Lake Khuvsgul, Asia's second largest freshwater lake. In February it is a frozen sheet you can walk straight out onto. You settle into the lakeside ger camp with the whole white expanse out the front door.

The whole day happens on the ice. Ice wrestling, horse sleigh races, sculptors turning blocks into dragons and temples, and an ice bar that is exactly what it sounds like. In the evening there are cultural performances, with the lake cracking and booming under everybody's feet.

Morning is dog sledding across the frozen lake, the fastest you will ever move while sitting still. The afternoon is yours: skate, shoot photos, or sit by the campfire and do nothing at all. In the evening there is an optional shaman visit if you want it.

Today you meet Tsaatan reindeer herders and Darkhad nomadic families. You learn how people actually get through a winter like this, try reindeer riding, and share salted milk tea inside a ger with the stove going.

A ger cart ride along the lakeshore in the morning, the slow local way of moving across ice. In the afternoon we drive back to Murun for the night before the flight out.

Morning flight back to the capital. The afternoon is free: Narantuul market for cashmere and souvenirs, or a massage and hot pot if you have had enough cold for one week.

Morning transfer to the airport and the trip ends here. You will be cold for about a week afterwards and you will miss it immediately.